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A year or so ago I bought some lovely skewers with a pig design on from my favourite cookshop in Paris, E Dehillerin in the Rue Coquillière. I've actually only just started using them but they look great, in a twee sort of way. This recipe involves most bits of the pig but you can really use whatever cuts and offal you fancy. It's also a great way to use rare breed pork from farms where you have to buy a quarter of a beast. Richard Vaughan at Huntsham Farm in Herefordshire does exactly that with his Middle White pork and Longhorn beef.

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